Out in Malibu — Long Story Short

Ed Ruscha's association with California is widely known. His artwork is simple, with bold text that conveys poignant messages. My favorite Ed Ruscha happens to be one that brings to mind my memories of Los Angeles, or in particular, Malibu. LAX - Sunset - Malibu depicts the L.A. coastline covered in the noxious cloud of pollution that gives the city its luminous glow. Ruscha references his past works with the titling of the locales along the coast, but uses washes of color to subdue the viewer and make them think of what they love about the iconic coastline. For me, that is the location furthest up the Pacific Coat Highway: Malibu. Malibu holds a place in my heart and I know more about it than the "Angelenos" who have been there to hike or to take Instagrams at Malibu Wines. So please, let me guide you through my ideal day in Malibu and maybe you'll be able to see a side of America's most famous beach town that the tourists who flock to Paradise Cove haven't seen.

Whenever I am in Malibu I begin my day with the best breakfast burrito east of the I-405 at Lily's Café & Pastries. Known to locals as Lily's, this tiny establishment is located in Point Dume on Heathercliff Road. The breakfast burritos come stuffed with eggs, bacon, and refried beans, but you can adapt the recipe to fit your preferences. I always add Avocado and throw on some of Lily's famous hot sauce, which is Mount Vesuvius in sauce form. These burritos are a superior hangover cure and are a favorite among Pepperdine students on weekend mornings. No matter what season it is there is always a wait for one of Lily's masterpieces, so make sure to call ahead and pick up your order.

After eating what felt like the equivalent of a small animal at Lily's, I wanted to do something that highlighted the unique (and often ignored) history of Malibu. Nothing else tells the backstory of the town quite like The Adamson House. Built in 1930 by Rhoda Ringe Adamson, the house was used as the Adamson family's primary residence on her mother's Malibu Ranch. The home was designed by Stiles Clemence who aimed to infuse multiple styles to create a stunning amalgamation of Andalusian and Moorish influences.

What sets The Adamson House apart from other Spanish style homes in Los Angeles is the immense amount of tile work made by the family's tile company, Malibu Potteries, used to adorn the home. Malibu Potteries produced the tile used to adorn Los Angeles City Hall and The Mayan Theater in Hollywood. This house is the single largest example of the short lived tile company's work and it does not disappoint.

Upon walking inside for my tour, I was left speechless (which rarely happens) by the vivid colors that fill the home. With how popular neutrals are today in design, it was inspiring to see a home that looked more like a psychodelic kaleidescope than an print of the New York Times.

By far, the best part of the Adamson House is the windows. In my opinion, what sets great architects apart from good architects is the ability to place windows where they bring in light AND capture a universally beautiful view. Stiles Clemence crafted the design wonderfully and created painterly vignettes from every window in the house. As I walked around the home, it was clear to me that I had to include it in more than just my Malibu Guide, so don't worry, I will give you the insider's tour of this beauty soon enough.

After walking around in circles for over an hour at The Adamson House, I worked up an appetite (yes after eating that burrito an hour before, don't judge me.) I usually avoid tourist traps like the plague, but Malibu Farm on the Malibu Pier is the one exception to my rule. I have been eating here since long before it was the "most instagrammed place in California" and will continue to do so for as long as I can afford to pay $20 for parking at the pier. The food at Malibu Farm is simple and well crafted. The high quality local ingredients with plenty of added calories never disappoint; and the view isn't half bad either.

After adding a large helping of plaque to my arteries, I ventured west down P.C.H. to my favorite beach spot. If you ask anyone who lives in Malibu, they will have a specific beach that they claim is best. Personally, Escondido Beach is my preferred locale.

Escondido Beach can be accessed via an unorthodox (and a bit worrisome) tunnel way underneath a highway overpass. A small creek floodway connects the dry waterbed to the beach and allows people to safely pass under the road. On the other side lies a small section of the beach that does not have houses crammed on the sand. The best part of this beach is that there are no lifeguards. For those of you who think I'm horrible for saying that, let me explain. No lifeguards = no patrol for alcohol on the beach. People openly drink and enjoy themseleves without having to worry about getting a ticket from the beach cops. No lifeguards also means that dogs are welcome (and rampant) on this beach. I have frequented this beach since my Sophomore year of college and can happily say that tourists drive right past this spot assuming that it is "private." In actuality, no beach in California is private, homeowners create the illusion of privacy by building their properties so close together that it is difficult for beachgoers to gain access.

And you'll find what I'm talking about...

Escondido Beach connects to Paradise Cove Beach (a place popular with people who rent/own RV's) and eventually to Big Dume Beach. If you like to walk, this beach is the perfect place for you, with roughly three miles of open coastline to explore. If you want to avoid the crowds at Zuma and have an uninhibited day on the sand, hit up Escondido.

Just down the road is one of the only places in Malibu that I would consider fast paced. Latigo Canyon is famous for the hundreds of sports car commercials that have been shot on the long and windy road. For me, Latigo was the best place to drive fast and have fun up in the hills. Make sure to pull off the road and take in the breathtaking views that show off the drama of the Santa Monica Mountains.

Latigo Canyon stretches from P.C.H. to Kanan Dume Road in Agoura Hills. Driving the full stretch of the road takes a while, but is well worth it to obtain the full experience. To give you a taste of the drive I recorded a time lapse of a part of my time creeping down the mountain. Take a look.

To finish off my day in my old stomping grounds I chose to visit with some old friends. We ordered take out from my favorite sushi restaurant in the area, Bui Sushi, and headed up to their rooftop to watch the sunset. This spot is where I celebrated my past few July Fourths by watching the fireworks displays up and down the shoreline. This sunset was especially beautiful and made me nostalgic for living in Malibu and for not having a full time job.

If you want to watch an incredible sunset like this one, drive up Rambla Vista (just past Las Flores Canyon) from P.C.H. and look out over the ocean from the top of the hill. I promise you it won't disappoint.

Now that you know where to go (and more importantly where not to), your day in Malibu can be enjoyed far from the worst of tourist attractions.

P.S. Malibu is great all year round, but it is least crowded in the Fall. The weather is still pleasant and you won't be stuck in traffic for hours coming and going.

Cheers,

Hugh