Long Story Travels: Lisbon — Long Story Short

It's been a minute since I have had the time to take a vacation, let alone a trip outside of the United States. So when my family asked if I wanted to come along for a trip to Portugal all I could say was 'YES' and 'can you pay for my airfare?'

Visiting Lisbon has been on my bucket list for a while now. The city has had a tourism renaissance over the past five years and many are flocking to Portugal for a more cost effective European alternative to countries like Spain, Italy, and France. Lisbon itself is one of the most important European capitols when it comes to the general historical narratives of exploration and colonialism. The port of Lisbon was the launching point for famous explorers like Vasco De Gama and Ferdinand Magellan, who both established sea routes for Western and Eastern discovery. Because of this, Lisbon became an extremely rich city during the 1400s and 1500s that displayed its wealth through via impressive architectural feats.

Overall, Lisbon is a stunning mix of European classicism, Moorish mystique, and subtle decay. My initial description of the city was: "Rome meets San Francisco with better weather" complete with the Portuguese version of the Golden Gate Bridge. The buildings, beautifully degraded, are enchanting and make Lisbon feel authentic rather than tailored for American tourists. Our Airbnb was the perfect example of the town's unique aesthetic - a late 1800s two story pied-a-terre, straight outta my architectural fantasies. The hand plastered mouldings, eleven foot ceilngs, and antique chandeliers were accented by impressive contemporary artworks by painters like Peter Halley. Could it get any better?

The list of my favorite things to do in Lisbon is a mile long. From dining to shopping to site seeing - here are my top spots to hit up in the Portuguese capitol.

SITE SEEING

Castelo Sao Jorge

Castelo Sao Jorge was built during the Moorish occupation of Lisbon in the 10th Century and features and impressive collection of edifices. Inside the complex are multiple gardens that house a flock of Peahens and Peacocks for visitors to (attempt) to pet. Wander through the gardens and find your way atop the castle walls - it won't disappoint!

PRO TIP - visit just before nightfall and watch the sunset over the city with a bottle of wine from the Casa do Leão Restaurant.

Santa Justa Lift

This is by far one of the most unique sites in Lisbon! The Santa Justa Lift is a small tower with an elevator system connecting the lower streets of the Baixa district to Carmo Square. The tower was designed by Raoul Mesnier du Ponsard using intricate ironwork. Visitors can ride the elevator and walk to the viewing deck for a small fee.

PRO TIP - go to during the morning before the crowds and watch as the Lisbon comes alive for the day below you.

Tower of Belem

The most iconic of all Portuguese sites, the Tower of Belem is a UNESCO World Heritage site that lives up to the hype. The tower was used during the Age of Exploration as a place to watch for incoming ships or attacks as it sits just off the riverbank fully surrounded by water.

MUSEUMS

National Tile Museum

If you enjoy design and learning about interiors from a historical perspective, the National Tile Museum is for you. This museum is housed inside a former Convent on the Northern end of Lisbon with an impressive collection of Portuguese tile that will make your jaw drop.

PRO TIP - do not miss out on the impressive hand painted tile mural that depicts Lisbon before the destructive earthquake of 1755. Its in the last room of the Museum!

National Tile Museum - interior tile mural

Carmo Archeological Museum

One of my absolute favorite places in Lisbon - the Carmo Archeological Museum features an extensive collection of artifacts from the Iberian Peninsula set inside a former Church. The most breathtaking part of this museum? The structure is completely roofless and open air due to the collapse of the roof during the great earthquake.

DINING

Pasteis de Belem

As someone who likes to eat more than they like to breathe, the Pasteis de Belem was number 1 on my list of establishments to try in Lisbon. Pasteis are the signature pastry of Lisbon, having been around for hundreds of years, and this establishment has been perfecting them since 1837. The little pastries resemble a miniature quiche filled with a sweet custard that is brûléed and doused in cinnamon. I went twice while I was in town... it was THAT good.

100 Maneiras

If you're looking for a restaurant to exhilarate your tastebuds (and your Credit limit) then 100 Maneiras is your place. With an imaginative tasting menu featuring contemporary interpretations of Portuguese classics like 'Bacalhau on a miniature clothes line' each course will surprise and delight you. The creative names of their dishes will also keep you laughing (a Pork Belly dish named 'Miss Piggy') while you make your way through each course alongside stellar wine pairings.

Cafe de Sao Bento

One of my favorite discoveries in our surrogate neighborhood was Cafe Sao Bento. This little steakhouse across the street from the Portuguese Parliament will make you feel like you were transported back to the golden age of 20th century Lisbon. The ruby red interior, classic Portuguese steak dishes, and the friendliest servers all make Cafe Sao Bento a dope spot to have a late night meal.

SHOPPING

Caza de Vellaz

If you're a candle freak like I am, Caza de Vellaz is a must when you visit Lisbon. Founded in 1789, this candle shop produces stunning hand molded wax candles that make Le Labo look like Glade. I visited the shop twice during my trip to buy gifts for friends and some unique candles for myself including a Mushroom shaped one that looks more like a sculpture than a candle. The best part? The candles run between 10 - 100 euro, so you can buy a bunch without breaking the bank.

PRO TIP: bring cash, as they do not accept credit cards and purchase a honey scented candle - you won't regret it!

Time Out Market

Open air markets are as European as clubbing until 6AM, so when we happened upon the Time Out Market in Lisbon I was overjoyed. Time Out recently refurbished one of the oldest open air markets in Lisbon and brought in a variety of local vendors including wine shops, clothing vendors, patisseries, and sit down restaurants. This is the perfect place to wander around and stuff your face while you soak in the local culture.

Stay tuned for my next installment featuring a day guide for Sintra - Lisbon's Versailles!